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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.